If the memorable design is called iconic, the top has always been immutable.That is the watches of the ashemetric case created by Cartier.In the dawn of the 1920s watch, Cartier worked on the production of a variant case, and eventually gave the masterpiece tank a ashimetric model.Why did Cartier only challenge asymmetric cases?It is Cartier's step as a jeweler.
星武志：写真 Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)広田雅将（本誌）：取材・文 Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)［クロノス日本版 2021年7月号 掲載記事］Beauty shape created by left and right asymmetric -trial of design that should be called heresy-
An asymmetric modeling that has now become commonplace.Cartier has been working since the dawn of watches.Crosh in 1920, Ashimetric in 36, and 67 years of crash.What you can see from these three works is Cartier's unique steps that have been a variety of attempts in design.
Archives Cartier Ⓒ Cartierクロシュ リストウォッチ ［1920］資料を見る限りで言うと、カルティエが初めて製作した非対称時計がクロシュである。これは1922年に製造された個体。置き時計として使えるように、ケースの6時位置は平たく成形されている。なお、初期のクロシュは限定版だったと記録にはある。In Cartier's history, there are several models that should be called heresy.Pasha de Cartier, which was revived in 1985, is one of them.This work, which was extended to military diver watches at the time, was quite strange as a watch made by the king's jewelry dealer.However, in terms of design, there is nothing comparable to ashemetric motifs.Now, Richard Mills and others have begun to create high -end asymmetric molding luxury watches.However, Cartier had been working on asymmetric design since the dawn of his wristwatch.From the era when watches are not widespread, we will adopt a strange design.Cartier's attempt seems to be at least half a century earlier than other companies.
One of the reasons why Cartier, a jeweler, has adopted various styles.Until the century entered the century, he liked the classic garland style, but he began to work on a new style around 1906.Specifically, it is a geometric pattern and an abstract model.
Vincent Wulveryck, Collection Cartier Ⓒ Cartierタンク ロザンジュ リストウォッチ ［1936］非対称を推し進めたのが、1936年の「タンク ロザンジュ」である。これはストラップを3本のラグで固定する「ロザンジュ ア ブリッド」。おそらく9リーニュの手巻きムーブメントを搭載していた。このケースの他にも、ふたつのラグで固定するモデルが製作された。N.Welsh, Collection Cartier Ⓒ Cartierタンク オブリーク リストウォッチ ［1963］少なくとも1957年の時点で、カルティエはアシメトリックの再生産を開始していた。これはその再生産モデル。製造はおそらくジャガー・ルクルト。1963年、カルティエ・パリは926本の時計を販売し、そのうち703本は、本作を含む、タンク以外のモデルだった。The accelerated change is that Charles Jaco has joined as a designer, Hans Nadelhofer, a jewelry historian."Cartier", who summarizes him, said, "Jacoh's biggest Cartier and the current contribution to the current design will abandon the garland style and incorporate more bold colors and designs to nurture new design aesthetics.There is something to say. "He adopted Chinese style, Indian, Egyptian style, and ballet Lus, which emphasized flat geometric patterns, and brought Cartier a high -quality Earl deco style to Cartier.
Interestingly, Cartier did not stick to one style.Louis Cartier, who was driving Cartier at the time, liked the Garland style, but did not stick to one style.He was cold for Earl Nouveau, a garland -style opponent, and he didn't like Cartier's "as a result" and even the Earl Deco -style style.There is.Despite strongly launching Earl Deco at the 1925 World Exposition.
Aside from that, it can be said that the style of "bold colors and design" had the most influential style was a new watch produced since the 1910s.Louis Cartier's "S" (S is the meaning of Silver), Jacoh worked on practical daily necessities, of course, including the latest watches at the time.Although the designer's name is not written in the Cartier style, it is not difficult to find Jacoh fascinated by ballet Lus in the modeling of geometric and symmetrical "tanks".Moreover, it would be more than considering that Ballet Lus was a big trend in Paris of this era.
Jean-Marie del Moral Ⓒ Cartier1951年から独自の腕時計を開発するようになったカルティエ・ロンドン。60年代後半には、パリのデザインを踏まえつつも、大胆なデザインを採用するようになる。その一例が、写真に見られる極端に長いインデックスだ。Jaco's style, which liked geometry and symmetry, had a significant impact on Cartier's watches until at least the early 30s.Cartier's wristwatches favorite Roman numbers were probably adopted because they seemed to look more symmetrical than Arabic numbers.
However, even in watches, Cartier did not stick to his style.Several tanks had an Arabic number index, and Crosh, which was produced in 1920, had an exception as an asymmetric bell case as a Cartier watch.The reason for this collection was probably because the Nadelhofar said, "Cartier's clock division has been greatly loved by the long -lasting customers."There are some opinions that drives this watch on driving watches, but in fact, this unusual design was used as a clock when removed from the arm.In this era, demand for pendant watches increased, while demand for watches was declining.Perhaps Cartier dared to give such a design to stimulate new demand for watches.
Cartier London Archives Ⓒ Cartier1930年に描かれた、アシメトリックの文字盤デザイン。もっとも、この時代のカルティエ ウォッチは、デザインのバリエーションが極端に多い。カルティエが時計デザインの共通化を図るのは、ロベール・オックとアラン・ドミニク・ペランが「レ マスト ドゥ カルティエ」を発表して以降のことである。
Since the 1920s, Cartier has begun to launch a practical product produced by the S section (although it was an extremely expensive product).Bags for women, watches for men.The Cartier head office show windows, with symmetrical tanks and round pocket watches, and Cartier appealed to that modest "democratization."On the other hand, there were, of course, customers seeking unique watches.As before, they wanted a unique mechanism and design watches.Cartier of this era also responded to the request to make the most ugly watch in the world.
The model created at the request of such a customer is "Tank Rosenju", and now "Tank Ashimetric".The September 36 slip has the following statement:"Gold clock with bracelet. Parallelograph (parallel four -sided). Model 385. With leather belt and Aldironbuckle. Movement is U".The client is a certain person living in France, and its selling price is 2200 francs.It was made by Jaguar (now Jaguar Lukult), as well as Cartier watches.
Vincent Wulveryck, Collection Cartier Ⓒ Cartierクラッシュ リストウォッチ ［1967］1960年代後半に、カルティエ・パリとは違う打ち出しを行うようになったカルティエ・ロンドン。その傑作が、ゆがんだケースを持つクラッシュだ。そのケースは、時計というよりも、ジュエリーに由来する彫金技術で製造された。カルティエ蔵。Vincent Wulveryck Ⓒ Cartierクラッシュ スケルトンウォッチ ［2015］2010年に、自社工房を完成させたカルティエ。ケース内製化への取り組みは、再現が不可能とされたクラッシュをリバイバルさせた。手巻き（Cal.9618 MC）。20石。2万8800振動／時。パワーリザーブ約72時間。Pt（縦45.32×横28.15mm）。世界限定67本。参考商品。It is unlikely that Cartier, who later set up a military watch and completed "Pasha", was careless about the trend of watches.As a guess, probably Cartier made it as a driving watch.If the index is placed diagonally, the time will be easier to read when driving.It would be reasonable to think that Cartier was carefully fused into this style in the United States in the 20s.However, it was Cartier's unique point that the productivity rectangular case was even more asymmetric.Given that there were multiple variations, Cartier must have wanted to regular this model.However, in October 1936, France left the gold standard, making it difficult to produce expensive gold clocks.And this unique model has been sealed by World War II, which broke out in 39 years.
Immediately after the war, Cartier took a conservative stance on his watch.The biggest reason is that Louis Cartier, who has been promoting his wristwatch, has died.It's unlikely that he was fascinated by the watch enough to make an electric clock, but did not consider mass production of a watch.However, as of the 42th year of his death, Cartier Paris's number of watches sold was only 390 a year, not large -scale flattering.Of these, there are 38 tanks, and the rest are 352.It is no surprise that the subsequent Cartier has a distance from his wristwatch.
The big change was in 1933.Jeanne Tousan, who joined Cartier around 2018, became the creative director of the company.She was nicknamed Louis Cartier as "Pan Tail," and in fact, she liked the motif of the leopard and quickly gained worldwide evaluation.Juvaine Givenchy evaluates the Tousan:"She integrated jewelry into modern fashion. She achieved jewelry, fashion, and style fusion."
クロシュ ドゥ カルティエ スケルトンウォッチ ［2021］スケルトンを得意とする現代のカルティエ。2021年は、このムーブメントをクロシ ュのケースにも収めた。手巻き（Cal.9626 MC）。25石。2万1600振動／時、パワーリザーブ約38時間。18KPG（縦37.15×横28.75mm）。3気圧防水。世界限定50本。予価712万8000円（税込み）。She started her career in Cartier with bag design, later designed jewelry, special works, and after 37.Later, she became the director of Cartier, but she resigned after 1955, and she began to focus only on her design.It's no surprise that Cartier's watches have approached fashion under her bag, who started his career in a bag.
Louis Cartier, who once invited Tousan, gave her a strange advice saying "don't do drawing."She called her a "unusual amateur", and she wasn't tied to her existing design because she had never received specialized education, and Louis Cartier found her future there.That's it.
The crash announced in 1967 was a collection that symbolized Cartier's changes.Whether the design motif was a crushed Benuir or a clock that happened to be broken in a traffic accident, the design that makes you feel the affinity with fashion is out of the past.Cartier London worked on the design of this work.However, given that Tusan was carefully checking the designs of London and New York, the broken design would not be unrelated to her influence.
However, even Cartier customers who are tolerant of unusual watches are limited to asymmetric design.In addition, its manufacturing cost was more expensive for regular models.Cartier's full -scale revival of asymmetric modeling must wait for the company after 2010, with the company's latest production facilities.
Cloche de Cartier Cartier's bell that overlaps the history of 100 years
クロシュ ドゥ カルティエ古典的なデザインをリバイバルさせた「カルティエ プリヴェ」。2021年の新作はなんとクロシュである。手巻き（Cal.1917 MC）。19石。2万1600振動／時。パワーリザーブ約38時間。Pt（縦37.15×横28.75mm）。3気圧防水。世界限定100本（他にも18KPG、18KYGもあり）。予価361万6800円（税込み）。As a limited edition, a very small number of original Crosh.Since then, Cartier has revived this attractive design several times.Typical ones are 1984 models and limited editions of 1995 and 2007.However, the former model with the upper and lower asymmetric cases was different from the original, and the latter two were completely limited items made for the Cartier Colector.Cartier became a maniphaste in Calibuled Cartier, and has since begun to focus on modern watchmaking.
It was around 2015 that Cartier began to look at the collection of the past again."Let's go back to the once loved Cartier," said Syrille Vinlon, currently CEO at the company.At that time, he said that his intention was unacceptable, but the situation changed when Vinlon was appointed CEO.The new "Crosh de Cartier" can be seen by his intentions that are more beautiful than the new work.
However, this is not a complete revival as before.The case was slightly massive and the index was as thick as well.Its design is a result of Vinylon's "looking back on the past".
The case finish was also modernly changed.Since 2010, Cartier has begun to manufacture not only movements but also exteriors.The asymmetrical case consisting of a very small distortion proves that this work is a model created in 2021, not 1920.
Beyond the framework for lovers, the new Crosh de Cartier has the content that appeals to ordinary watch lovers.In retrospect, isn't the design suitable for the modern age when an icon is required?
基本的なデザインは往年にほぼ同じ。しかし、ベゼルの上面はわずかにフラットになった。かつてのクロシュはベゼルの角を落とし、側面につなげるデザインを持っていたが、対して新作は、明らかに角を立てている。もっとも、磨きのレベルは往年のモデルよりもさらに良い。面の歪みが小さいことは、ケースにかかった影の歪みの小ささが示す通りである。18KWGモデルはゴールドサテン、 18KPGモデルはブラックサテン文字盤を持つクロシュ。対してPtモデルには、アイボリーのオパーリン文字盤が与えられた。カルティエとしては珍しい試みだが、粒子が適度に細かく、質感、視認性ともに優れている。わずかに赤みがかっているのは、リュウズにあしらわれたルビーとバランスを取るため。ケースサイド。以前のクロシュとの違いは、主にリュウズ。カボションカットのルビーが与えられたほか、指あたりの良い形状に改められた。注目すべきは風防の形状。かつてのクロシュは、ミネラルガラス風防を持っていたが、新作は硬いサファイアに改められた。角が割れないよう、注意深く丸みを持たせている。普段使いができるのが、新しいクロシュの魅力だ。今の加工技術を証する写真。軟らかいプラチナ素材にもかかわらず、磨きは良好だ。レザーストラップは高級機らしく、ネジで固定される。