1987年から本格的なウォッチメイキングを手掛けはじめたシャネルが、その後の30数年間で成し遂げたクォリティの飛躍。自社工房であるG&Fシャトランの充実と、適切なM&Aによる関連企業の協力体制は、オートオルロジュリーをオートクチュールと同義と位置付けるシャネルならではの手法だろう。現在のシャネルが擁する基幹ムーブメントの全貌と、デザインを取り仕切るアルノー・シャスタンの言葉から、その根幹に通底する“シャネルの時”とは何なのかを探っていきたい。
J12 パラドックス2色のセラミックケースを切断し、繋ぎ合わせたバイカラーケース。防水性を確保するためか、バックケースにメタル製のリングを介してサファイアガラスを嵌め込んでいる。自動巻き（Cal.12.1）。28石。2万8800振動／時。パワーリザーブ約70時間。高耐性セラミック×SS（直径38mm）。50m防水。108万9000円（税込み）。星武志：写真 Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)鈴木裕之：取材・文 Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki［クロノス日本版 2021年11月号掲載記事］Le Temps Chanel, Chanel Horlogerie
J12 ファントムすべてのディテールをホワイトのトーン・オン・トーンで仕上げたモデル。見返しやダイアルセンターなどに光輝材を混ぜて、白一色の世界に抑揚と高い判読性を加えている。自動巻き（Cal.12.1）。27石。2万8800振動／時。パワーリザーブ約70時間。高耐性セラミック×SS（直径38mm）。200m防水。91万3000円（税込み）。It was 1987 that Chanel was the first watchmaking.For 34 years, Chanel has greatly improved its quality, but there have been a number of events that have been a major turning point in the process.The first opportunity was 93 years.La Show de Fon's exterior manipuling, G & F Chatlan, who has been working on "Premiere" for a long time, has taken over management rights, and Chanel has its own factory with a site area of about 1800 square meters.It has become.
Since "Premiere" in 1987, the first full -fledged mechanical wristwatch in the artistic director, the artistic director of the late Jack Elyu, was the "J12" announced in 2000.。This model, wearing a ceramic exterior while following the theory of a practical wristwatch, not only turned this relatively new material into a precious image, but also a new wind for the concept of traditional watchmaking for more than 2 centuries.Blown in.Jack Elyu's passionate drawing, which was inspired by the image of a yacht and racing car, was reproduced brilliantly using glossy ceramic materials.The manufacturing technology of cases and bracelets has improved year by year, and since the G & F Chatlan is fully in -house, it has been increasing the degree of refining by lightly surpassing other companies' ceramic cases.
By the way, when has Chanel, who has established the foundation as a luxury watch maison with the evolution of such exterior technology, began to look at the internal mechanism?Historically, the "J12 Tourbillon", which was announced in 2005 with a ceramic ground plate to the existing Evoche, is positioned as the beginning of Chanel Complications.However, it is from the 2008 "J12 Caliber 3125" that starts to look at the movement itself.The configuration of an automatic winding three -needle date is the same as a normal J12.However, Chanel has found the same value as a jewel in the movement based on the 3120 caliber 3120 made of Audema Pige.The balance bridge arranged in a linear design and the 22K gold rotor coated with black ceramic are designed by Chanel.
キャリバー 12.1J12のリニューアルに合わせて新規導入された基幹ムーブメント。基礎設計を共有するムーブメントも存在するが、本機はシャネルでデザインされた独自のローターを持つ。28石。2万8800振動／時。パワーリザーブ約70時間。
It was not a complex, but the quality pursuit of Basic Evoche was greatly opened during the renewal of the J12, which was unveiled in 2019.In January 2019, two months ahead of the opening of Baselworld, the news arrived that no one in the Swiss watch industry did not expect.He expressed his capital participation in Kennish, an emerging movement based in Geneva.Kennish, which was just founded in 2016, leaves an unknown part in the process of its establishment, but it can be considered an independent movement supplier with a tuder as the founder.Chanel quickly acquired the right to use the newly -a -leap automatic movement, which had already achieved great results.The new J12, which was announced in March of the same year, was developed under Chanel.."1" will be installed.This movement, in which Chanel is in charge of planning and design, and Kennish is in charge of manufacturing, is a substantial J12 exclusive aircraft.
The historic full renewal is Arno Shastan, who leads the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio in the Vandome Plaza.After a 10 -year career in Cartier, Shastan, who became his director of Chanel's Creation Studio in 2013, witnessed his first J12 debut on a young day.According to him, the first J12 is "a fashion maison, a fashion maison with a great influence, shakes a conservative watchmaking world."It is said that he is a muse that trains himself to the world of watch design and is still inspired.Interestingly, it seems customary to use J12 as a female noun in Chanel.Since joining Chanel, he has been working on the design concept of "boyfriend" (15 years), "Messhe de Chanel" (16 years), and "Code Coco" (17 years).The renewal of J12 must have been a lot of trouble.As a result, he chose a method of "changing everything without changing anything."This wasn't just a concept, I couldn't help doing it.If there was a place to shake free skills, it was caliber 12.It would have been only 1 rotor.In that sense, this workhorse also has pure Chanel blood.
ケニッシに資本参加することで、シャネルも汎用ムーブメントの代替機となる自社製ムーブメントを持つことになった。設計はシャネル、製造はケニッシが担当。J12専用のムーブメントだが、非円形のテンワにマイクロステラスクリューによる調速という構成は、実用機に相応しい堅牢さを併せ持つ。On the other hand, Shastan's successful skills as a product designer have been further closed because nothing has changed.A slightly slender bezel and an index changed from Dellin, a type of engineering plastic, to ceramics.At first glance, the details of the details and the sense of balance, such as the plating on the dating window border that is the cross -section of the dial, seems to be far from bold at first glance.The work is more detailed, such as changing the typeface of the day disk from a traditional font to Chanel's unique typeface.However, Shastan seems to have been released from the repression of himself in the J12 Paradox in the following 20 years.J12 Paradox, which boldly cut black and white high -resistant ceramics and combined with a truly clever method, has fully demonstrated the bold and precise DNA of this maison.
"I like the appearance of this clock peeking from the cuffs of the sweater. At first, only the black silhouette is seen, but if you move your arm a little, you will be surprised and comfortable. If you do not have boldness, you will not be able to wear it.Still, I wanted to express such a duality with a luxury watch. "Shastan, who left such a comment last year, will develop a cross -cracked story this year with the theme of "Le Temps Chanel".Among the many unique models, such as capsule collections that incorporate electro music codes, this magazine wants to pay attention to the newly developed "Calibur 12..It is a 33mm diameter J12 equipped with "2"."J12 Calibur 12" equipped with the second -handed development Automatic caliber.The styling of "2 edition 1" was selected again with tone -on -tone coloring.A one -grained diamond and a baguette cut -style sapphire bezel plate asserted a modest personality.This is a sign of how Shustan pays respect for the original J12, but this year is Prelone Chill.Next year, he will show a more bold approach.
J12 キャリバー12.2 エディション1新規開発された小径ムーブメントを搭載。ホワイトでは、ベゼルのバゲットカット調のサファイアに、乳白色のコーティングを施す。自動巻き（Cal.12.2）。27石。2万8800振動／時。パワーリザーブ約50時間。高耐性セラミック×SS（直径33mm）。50m防水。各色世界限定555本。136万4000円（税込み）。The designer of Chanel's watchmaking, Arno Shastan, is interesting for watch magazines like this magazine, with no special admiration for the concept of high complications.It feels like a shadow on Chanel's unique auto orlojury.
"Auto Orlo Julie for Chanel transcends technical complexity. In the first place, Auto Orlo Julie means a watch category equipped with a complex mechanism, but what can be simple.Why do you want to make it complicated? I like the clarity of the clock, not the complexity of the clock. "
J12 キャリバー12.2 エディション1自動巻き（Cal.12.2）。27石。2万8800振動／時。パワーリザーブ約50時間。高耐性セラミック×SS（直径33mm）。50m防水。世界限定555本。136万4000円（税込み）。The one that embodies the aesthetic sense of Shastan is a series of own movements."Calibur 1" in 2016.This product group, which starts with, has an outstanding beauty without having a complex mechanism.It is a mechanism to serve beauty, slightly different from simple functional beauty.The geometric bridge work based on the concept of Shastan is large, but the most important thing that watch enthusiasts pay attention to is the beauty of functional parts such as gears and pigments.I have never seen Ruby with such a big, clear color, with beautiful Olive.In this regard, Roman Gotier, whose collaboration has been collaborated since 2011 and has been working as an independent watchmaker, is also one of the best micro parts suppliers in Switzerland.There is no other way to understand the technology and respect Chanel's aesthetic eyes who asked for it.
"Chanel has a unique definition of the concept of Auto Orlo Julie. The staff involved in Chanel's watch production is craftsmen with advanced skills, and I am a jewel craftsman, jewelry sculptor, embroidery, and enamel craftsmen.Just like working, I rely on a watchmaker Savoa Fale. For me, Auto Orlo Julie is the best stage that expresses my vision in watchmaking.It is a heart -hearted playground that uses the name as a keyword. Auto Orlo Julie and Autokuture are only one different word, and the magic of dwelling is the same. "
