On September 23, Issey Miyake opened a new road store of "A-POC Able Issey Miyake" (Able, Able) on September 23."Aipoque" was an experimental brand in 1998 with the concept of "transforming the process of making clothes and proposing a new design in which wearers participate", and was suspended in 2007."Able" was launched in March this year by a team led by Yoshiyuki Miyama, a "Issey Miyake" designer, and aims to "expand the communication between the creators and the recipient by expanding the manufacturer and the future" while inheriting the manufacturing of "Aipok".。Why is it restarted at this timing?How to "weave the future"?Ask the designer of Yoshiyuki Miyamae "Aipok Able Issey Miyake".
WWD: Please tell me the concept of A-POC again.How do you inherit and develop it?
Yoshiyuki Miyama (hereinafter referred to as Miyamae): Miyake has been working in Paris Collection since the 1970s, and 2000 years ago, a new era, handed the baton of "Issey Miyake" to Naoki Takizawa, and Miyake himself is Fujiwara University."Aipok" was launched with the idea of "new values from fashion" and announced in Paris for the first time in 1998.A-POC means a "A Piece of Cloth" cloth.At that time, the word “integrated molding”, which is never used in the clothing industry, began to explore new concepts.
WWD: "Aipok" was impressive with no sewing knit.
Miyamae: It's natural to use a computer now, but it is a featured knitted knit knitted using a computer program from that time, and when you cut out a tube -shaped one, your clothes appear.Because it is not frayed, the wearer can cut and customize freely.In other words, I understand that not only the creator but also the recipient is indispensable to complete the clothes, and that is one of the important concepts of "Aipok".
"The wearer completes the clothes." - In the 1980s and 90s, there were many star designers and had a great influence on creating a new style, and the fans felt status to wear faster than anyone.Miyake also proposed in the design world to create a consciousness that the wearer participates.
WWD: 1998 was the turn of the times.
Miyamae: Apple (Apple) has announced "Eye Mac," and computers have begun to spread, and the fashion world has opened "UNIQLO" in Harajuku, and cheap fleece has become popular, and it is cheap and familiar.I was heading for a time to enjoy.I think that it was groundbreaking to create a system for making small lots of small lots in the era of mass production mass consumption, and create a mechanism that allows you to make as many as 1000 clothes in one or 1000 clothes.。
WWD: Creating a groundbreaking "Aipok" clothes does not apply to existing clothes making platforms.Did the design team have a different approach than before?
Miyamae: Instead of collecting and editing fabrics as in the past, designers and patterners are made while involved in all production processes such as raw materials, yarns, woven and knitted, dyeing, and processing.I myself joined the company in 2001 and experienced making clothes in a single cloth while involved in the river from the river by "Aipok".The attitude was since Miyake established a company and started making things in Japan, but I feel that R & D is especially active in the "Aipok" team led by Miyake.
WWD: Mr. Miyamae started his career from "Aipok".
Miyamae: When I participated, it was just a full -fledged start.I joined the company without knowing the material, but I think that what I was able to experience from scratch has led to "Issey Miyake", which I worked on from 11 to 19 years."Steam stretching" was born by developing the idea of "Aipok".
WWD: How was "Able" born?
Miyamae: I stopped in the corona, and when I thought about making things in the future, I felt that my experience in "Aipok" has made myself.In the conversation with Miyake, the idea of "Aipok" has now been challenged again to see if it can be new in this era.
I added the word "Able", which means "possible,", based on the desire to realize various things from the idea of "Aipok".There is also the word epoch making, but as we have created groundbreaking clothes 20 years ago, we have just been at the starting point to send new clothes that are suitable for the future.
WWD: Please tell me a little more about "possible".
Miyamae: Making things is collaboration.In other words, it is very difficult to make new things unless you have wisdom with various people."Aipok" has been closely connected to everyone and not only researched, but also implemented it.I want to realize it by involving the wearer.I think it is important to make things while using the word communication.The word “reality” is becoming more important.
WWD: What is reality?
Miyamae: It's not difficult, but what you can't see with the team alone through clothes making can see a new scenery and change your perspective and grow.I think it's leading to all things.So it's interesting.
WWD: Our reality, such as climate change and resource depletion, the more the concept of “no new” is born.How do you capture the next generation of things?
Miyamae: It may be natural for the times that the idea of "not making new things" is born.Since the Industrial Revolution, mass -produced and consumed it has existed as a value standard for economy and richness.The recoil is happening now and is in the phase of "What should I do?"I think there are many ways.It is also the case to recycle things, to share cars and houses, and how "Issey Miyake" has taken care of -how to tell them that they will be worn for a long time.The values of the times are definitely changing, only the new ones do not lead to the value of richness, and we are thinking about what it is.
I sympathized with the interview with Mr. Hosoo (President Masataka) I read the other day (President Masataka)."Don't stop creating humans."Humans have a history of pursuing new beauty, which accumulated and became a culture.By seeking beauty from ancient times, technology has evolved and human beings have become richer.I don't think it will stop, and the new beauty values and the beauty that change with each era are questioned.
I feel that fashion work is easy to be misunderstood.What is essential for making things in the next era is to always make it while feeling the connection with society.Clothes cannot be made alone.There are collaborators and you can dress.How to sustain such excellent technology and its environment.It is important to continue everything, and as well as pleats, I think it is important to inherit and develop one technology.Of course, there is a value of virtue to change, but we value how to continue.To continue, you need both creation and business wheels.
WWD: What was Kyoto in Kyoto?
Miyamae: I think that the important thing in the coming era is culture.He says that in a daily dialogue with Miyake, it will be very important in the future whether there is a culture.Kyoto is a town where tradition and innovation coexist.Innovation is happening, not only old ones.There are companies that have their own innovation, such as Kyocera, Shimadzu Seisakusho, and Nintendo.When I thought about where I wanted to do what I wanted to do, when I wanted to inherit and develop Miyake's philosophy and develop what I wanted to do, it was Kyoto.
WWD: In the city of tradition and innovation, we will inherit Miyake's philosophy.
Miyamae: We talk inside the company that we want to make our own unique things.Traditional is easy to be captured to protect and leave things, but I think tradition is to change according to the times.He said that he would have an atelier in Kyoto as a place to inherit and develop the concept of Aipok and "Aipok".Miyake also said, "Let's borrow water in Kyoto and grow our manufacturing (sowing seeds)."
WWD: In this new work, we have collaborated with contemporary artist Tatsuo Miyajima.
Miyamae: Mr. Miyajima has three concepts in order to prevent herself from getting lost and expressed time and life.The three concepts are "keeping changing," "creating a relationship with everything," and "continuing forever."The answers we thought about making things from the next era and Mr. Miyajima's words overlapped, and we said that we could borrow Mr. Miyajima's power to move forward.
The existing team alone has a limited idea, and a fixed concept is born.I want to go to an unknown land or see the scenery that is shaken.I think all of the driving force of manufacturing is curiosity.With the same feeling as a trip, I would like to make interesting things with people in different fields, those who have never met, with "Able".It is not necessarily once every six months to meet interesting people.I want to work on a different vector instead of matching the schedule of the collection.
WWD: In the project with Mr. Miyajima, we used a porous carbon material "tripole" based on the "Sony" thillar.
Miyamae: Actually, I have been working with "Sony" for three years."Triporus" is a material that can only be used for black, but it was the best material for use this time.Miyajima -san expresses the number 0 to 9 expresses life, and 0 expresses darkness and death.There is a hope that there are people like this through clothes, there are such materials, and the story of the person wearing it will begin.
WWD: Please tell me a little more about "triporus".
Miyamae: While research and development of battery electrode materials, Sony has found a unique micro structure of the firells and has developed a new plant -derived porous carbon material "triporus" with excellent adsorption characteristics.。The thighs are 2 million tons in Japan, more than 100 million tons are discarded worldwide, and some of them are incinerated, and greenhouse gases such as CO2 and PM2.Air pollutants such as 5 are discharged.The short -lived climate pollutant (SLCPS) is said to be one of the causes of climate change).Sony has developed a technique to remove it, with a glass fiber component called silica.It has the property of adsorbing and removing viruses more than conventional carbon materials, and was developing applications that make use of its properties."Sony" has a vision that wants to develop not only fibers but also water and air.I want to have the opportunity to convey the great skills for as many people as possible and the problems that are occurring in the world.
The material used this time is kneaded with "triporus" on the rayon.The beauty of black is different if the viewer sees.Black than normal black.No matter how much washing, black does not fall as the fiber breaks first.Black has faded and sewn, but we hope that it can be used for new alternative materials.This time I use it for jackets and pants.I want to make it a basic material in the future.
WWD: Please tell me how to sell.Are you considering selling not a seasonal system?
Miyamae: There are two types, "Aipok" and "Able", series and project activities.The project is described as Roman numerals, Ⅰ, Ⅱ, and Ⅲ, and is an important role in developing new ideas and technological developments from communication with different fields and different industries, indicating the innovation of the brand.It is performed on a project -by -project basis, not the season like a conventional collection.The sales method is to make Miyajima's projects side by side, make a reservation, and deliver it about a month later.I want to deliver it to those who like it without having to have any surplus stock.
There is no season in the series, and we propose basic items announced in alphabets such as Type S, O, U.It will be a series with steam stretching, shape memory material, and no -sewing knit born in 20 years.I hope that it will be an iconic entity in everyday clothes in a universal design and versatile men and women.The way of making is the same at the time, and the clothes are woven into one piece of fabric, and we are starting to make jackets, pants and basic items.Once you make a type, you will not change it, and the benefits for the customer can be purchased repeatedly if you like and find your own type.I want you to find your favorite shape and use it in your life.
■ A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE / KYOTO Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto-shi, Nakagyo-ku, Nakagyo-ku
