In addition to its original role, the bezel in recent wristwatches has become an indispensable part in terms of design and function. It would not be an exaggeration to say that mastering the bezel is, in turn, mastering the watch. We will explain the features and uses, etc., and approach the appeal of the bezel.
What is a bezel?
A bezel is a ring-shaped part attached around the windshield that protects the dial and movement.
Its role is to hold the windshield firmly in place, but as watches become more multi-functional, the bezel also plays a different role.
The Hublot "Classic Fusion" series features a bezel with eight screws inspired by a ship's window. Classic Fusion Titanium Deep Blue. Price 770,000 yen.The design of the bezel, which is placed on the outer frame of the dial, affects the impression of the watch.
It can be said that it is a part that determines the standing position of the watch, such as having a characteristic shape and decorating it with diamonds.
The number of bezels that play a major role not only in terms of design but also in terms of function is increasing. In addition to those with scales and time display functions, there are also those with a dive time recording function.
Materials of the bezel
Like the case and belt, the bezel is also made of various materials. In recent years, the watch industry has seen an increase in strong and luxurious ceramic bezels.
The Chanel "J12" series uses ceramic not only for the bezel but also for the case. With its unique texture, it presents a new way of expressing watches. The model in the photo is priced at 632,500 yen.It can be said that the greatest feature of ceramic materials is their high scratch resistance. It is said to be ten times stronger than the stainless steel material that was often used for bezels in the past.
Because the bezel also has a role to protect the watch body, it is often hit, but if it is made of ceramic, it will not be damaged.
In addition, it has excellent corrosion resistance and does not easily discolor, is lighter than metals, and is free from metal allergies because it is non-metal.
In this way, not only bezels, but also ceramics have a lot of appeal as a watch material.
The only weak point is that it breaks easily, so you need to be careful of strong impacts.
Types of Bezels as Decorations
As already explained, the bezel has an aspect that determines the first impression of the watch. Let's check the main types from the representative bezel designs.
A smooth bezel that highlights the appeal of the dial. Because of its simplicity, the impression changes greatly depending on the bezel angle, thinness, type and level of polishing, etc. Patek Philippe "Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref.5212A". One that uses a hand-drawn font and is attractively finished. Price 3.65 million yen."Smooth bezel" is the most standard design adopted by many watch brands among the many types of bezels.
The visibility of the dial is ensured because there are almost no accent decorations. In addition, make use of the decoration and design of the dial. It is often used in dress watches and is ideal for elegant finishing.
Because of its simplicity, the finish determines the quality of the watch. For example, the mirror-like finish of the smooth bezel is said to be an important factor in determining brand power, as it depends on the skill of the craftsman who worked on it.
A fluted bezel with a jagged shape like a mountain. Adopted by Rolex for the Day-Date, Datejust, and Sky-Terror.The "fluted bezel" is a bezel with a regular series of jagged shapes like mountains. The name "fluted" is a word that means vertical stripes.
It can be said that it is characterized by harmonizing with the gold material that is mainly used as a material and giving an original impression.
Because the luster stands out, if you choose an item with a fluted bezel when you want to make the watch stand out in a glamorous scene, you can create an even more luxurious and prestige feeling.
It is often used for dress-type watches that go well with formal scenes, and in recent years it has begun to be used not only for gold but also for silver-colored bezels.
"Engine turned bezel" is a bezel that is said to have been named because it was designed based on how an aircraft engine "turns".
At first glance, it looks a lot like a fluted bezel. However, unlike the fluted bezel, which cuts almost the entire surface of the bezel and consists of a continuous mountain shape, it is characterized by the fact that the design consists of a series of engraved and non-engraved parts.
The smooth surface of the bezel is engraved at regular intervals, and the non-engraved part looks like a bar from a distance.
In addition, the fact that stainless steel is often used instead of the gold material often used in fluted bezels can be said to be a feature of engine-turned bezels.
Hublot "Big Bang Unico White Gold Paraiba", a jewelry model using Paraiba tourmaline, which is said to be mined only about 1/10,000 compared to diamonds. Estimated price 28.97 million yen (made-to-order)."Jewelry bezel" is, as the name suggests, a bezel set with gems such as diamonds.
The design of the jewelry varies depending on the item, and some items have jewelry embedded at equal intervals, and others have jewelry spread over the entire bezel.
The brilliance of the jeweled bezel is perfect for scenes with an elegant atmosphere. Rather than a wristwatch, it can be said that this is one that should be treated as jewelry itself.
The "coin edge bezel" is a bezel with a jagged decoration that can be seen on the edge of a coin.
The design is similar to the fluted bezel, but the difference is that the fluted bezel consists of a continuous mountain shape, while the coin edge bezel has a fine line carved and a rounded jagged shape. ing.
In addition to the design aspect, the coin edge bezel also plays a functional role in the watch.
Since it can be expected to have the effect of suppressing light reflection and improving visibility, it is often used in watches that require high practicality, such as pilot's watches and diver's watches.
